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Travel + Culture

Artisan Chinese Bù Xié - 3,000 Year Old Cloth Shoes

11/18/2021

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These handmade artisan Chinese cloth shoes, bù xié, are a 3,000 year old tradition. They're typically made of 100% natural fibres such as cotton, wool, hemp, silk, and linen.  They are sturdy, lightweight, and comfortable. Intended for outdoor use, they also make great home slippers. 
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I got these black ones with the embroidery of the phoenix, because they reminded me of the elegance and strength of my great-grandmother. Also, in Chinese, the phoenix symbolizes auspiciousness and embodies the five virtues of benevolence, righteousness, propriety, wisdom, and sincerity.

This pair is made by 
Nei Lian Sheng Shoes, which has been making shoes in Beijing since 1853. Originally, Nei Lian Sheng shoes were made for royalty and officials during the Qing dynasty, and have been known for their comfortability and durability. They started off with. boots for officials and royalty, before their bù xié became fashionable amongst high society. So, I'm sure my great-grandmother must've had a pair...or several.  Nowadays, Nei Lian Sheng Shoes is the largest handmade shoe manufacturer in China.

​Their shoes are made of cotton, wool, linen, and silk, and though they may look simple, 
 each handmade shoe requires intense and complex craftsmanship and artistry. Making a pair of shoes requires 90 steps and 40 tools. The multilayered sole (I read 32 layers in one article), alone, takes 2-3 days per pair, and includes a process of immersing in hot water before steaming for hours and then beating over and over on stone.

You can visit their shop and headquarters in Beijing, where there is also a museum documenting the history of these shoes, as well as how they're made at Nei Lian Sheng Shoes. I love these shoes, because they're a great testament to enduring Chinese craftsmanship, ingenuity, culture, and history.

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